Other Odesa: Recorded observations of a living city

I am once again convinced how green Odesa is as a city. This time I came here in the summer to feel the seasonal atmosphere and relax by the sea.

It was not easy to get there: tickets for «Ukrzaliznytsia» trains were sold out instantly. We booked them at 8 am on the day the sale opened. The round trip on trains № 105K and № 106Ш cost about UAH 800–900 for a ticket in a compartment.

As for housing, prices rise space-faring in the summer. Apartments, which cost UAH 700 per day in May, were already offered for UAH 5,000 at the end of August. That is why we decided to stay in a hostel located on Kanatnaya Street, also in the center, which turned out to be a very convenient and economical solution.

Unlike my May trip, this time I hardly took out my phone to take pictures. We just walked watching the life of the city.

Compared to spring, the streets have become noticeably busier, with many more people everywhere.

Another thing that immediately catches the eye, — is a large number of Ukrainian flags. They are almost everywhere: they hang on buildings, painted on walls, they can be seen on windows and balconies. The presence of flags reminds of the indomitable spirit of the city and its inhabitants, and every day confirms Odessa's belonging to Ukraine.

Odessa Passage is one of the city's most notable architectural monuments, combining commercial purpose with art. Erected in the late 19th century, this mixed-use complex was designed as a commercial center, linking a hotel and a shopping gallery. This original concept ensured its functional viability and attractiveness for entrepreneurs and visitors.

Passage architecture — is a perfect example of eclecticism with elements of the Art Nouveau style. The main feature of the building is an elegant glass dome, which provides the space with natural light. The facades of the gallery are decorated with exquisite decor: sculptures, bas-reliefs and stucco.

Today, the Passage continues to perform its commercial function, but its role has been transformed. It is home to numerous shops, boutiques, cafes and restaurants that actively use the historical surroundings of the building to attract visitors. Commercialization is manifested not only in direct trade, but also in the use of the architectural appeal of the Passage as a background for photo sessions, cultural events and tourist programs.

This adaptation to modern market conditions allows maintaining the life of the complex while preserving it as an architectural monument. Thus, the commercial potential of the Passage is a key factor for its maintenance and integration into the modern urban environment of Odessa.

If in May the inclusive beach was a place of peace and solitude, then in the summer it becomes an active social center.

Inclusive beach — is an example of universal design, where the key focus is on barrier-free access for all categories of visitors. Here, as you noticed, a complex of solutions that ensure comfortable movement is implemented: specialized ramps, tactile paths and adapted bathrooms.

In the summer season, the beach space is actively commercialized. This is expressed in the appearance of a large number of sunbeds and other equipment, which, on the one hand, makes it crowded, and on the other hand, — supports its vital activity. This seasonal transformation illustrates how an infrastructure facility of important social importance is adapting to market conditions to ensure that services are available to a wide range of visitors.

Nudist Beach in Odessa is a specific recreational area located outside the main infrastructure of Langeron Beach. This stretch of coast functions as an alternative recreational space, providing privacy and freedom from commercialization.

Unlike the equipped areas, this beach is mainly wild, natural in nature. The coastline here is rocky, with stones and small areas of pebbles. The lack of developed infrastructure (such as sunbeds or cafes) contributes to maintaining an atmosphere of seclusion and simplicity, which is key for visitors to this place.

Gorky Park in Odesa, which recently received a new name — Mark Twain Park of Culture and Recreation, is one of the youngest and at the same time key recreational spaces in the city. Founded in 1973, it was designed as a green area for residents of an actively developed area.

This space is an example of purposeful landscape design, where more than 6,000 trees are planted on the park area, forming a dense green mass and contributing to the regulation of the urban microclimate, providing shade on hot days. According to functional zoning, the area is divided into several areas: recreational areas with alleys for walking and benches for recreation, as well as areas for active leisure with attractions and playgrounds, making it a key place for social interaction.

Vertical landscaping is a characteristic feature of the urban landscape of Odessa. In the streets, it is a common practice to use twisted plants such as ivy to cover the facades of buildings, balconies and fences. This performs the function of additional insulation of walls from the influence of sunlight, and helps to regulate the microclimate in the areas adjacent to buildings.

If you haven't read my past post about Odessa, which is called «Odessa — city, which I was delighted with», then I recommend doing it. https://tseivo.com/b/urban-kotyk/t/YRBoO7qOOz/odesa-misto-vid-iakoho-ia-zalyshylas-u-zakhvati

Tattered walls and abandoned houses waiting for renovation for years, — is part of the cityscape. And this neglect has its explanation. Many buildings here — are a historical heritage that is over a hundred years old. Their restoration — is extremely expensive and difficult, especially when the house has many private owners. And when some owners are unable or unwilling to invest in renewal, homes gradually collapse.

The graffiti covering the walls often appear on just such derelict surfaces. They become a kind of «canvas» for street artists. This phenomenon can be perceived in different ways: for some it is vandalism, and for others — is an integral part of modern urban culture, which fills the space left without proper care.

This «is another Odesa» — is not just a decline, but a reflection of the complex history of the city. A city that lives simultaneously in two dimensions: in its majestic history and in the realities of today, where beauty and neglect exist side by side.

An interesting socio-cultural phenomenon is observed in the urban environment of Odessa. Along with large-scale graffiti robots, these surfaces become spaces for self-identification and visual communication, especially among creative youth. This manifests itself in the form of small installations, stickers and collages that serve as a tool for self-expression. Such manifestations of Ukrainian creativity help authors demonstrate their presence in the public space and establish a dialogue with the city.

Evening Odesa opened up for me from another, unexpected side. I was surprised that it was quite dark in the very center of the city, namely on Deribasivska Street. Unlike the usual bright central streets, there was almost no municipal lighting.

The pedestrian areas lighting is uneven and is provided mainly by the commercial facilities of — shops, cafes and restaurants. This creates a mosaic structure of illumination: the areas around the institutions are illuminated, while the spaces between them remain in the shadows. This lighting model determines the visual nature of streets in the evening, which differs from traditional European cities with centralized lighting.

The restoration of urban development in Odesa after the damage caused by attacks by Russia illustrates the processes of post-conflict regeneration of urban space. The facade of the building, which was damaged as a result of war crimes of the Russian Federation, is undergoing restoration. The photographs record that new window structures were installed at the site of the damage on the first floor. This process is part of a comprehensive strategy aimed at restoring the city's life, which resists aggression. 

Life in Odessa — is a phenomenon that cannot be fully understood just by looking at a map or photos. This is what is felt in the air, and I definitely noticed it. Despite everything, the city does not just exist, it lives.

Here people never cease to rejoice, go to the sea, swim and enjoy the sun. It looks like a kind of therapy, as a way to restore mental balance, winning back the right to ordinary joy in reality every day. It's not just a rest, but a deep, conscious sense of the moment.

And street musicians — is the real pulse of the city. Their music becomes the soundtrack for evening walks. They gather people around them, turning ordinary streets into improvised concert halls. It's exciting to see families, couples in love and people with pets coming together around the same tune. This scene is a clear confirmation that the most important thing in the city — is not the walls, but the people.

Life in Odessa — is an indomitable spirit that manifests itself in everyday, seemingly simple things. It is the ability to rejoice, enjoy the sea and music, which is the strongest answer to all trials.